Marni designer Francesco Risso shows his 'humanistic' side

Short of calling his collection sustainable, the creative director makes clear his view of plastics and waste

It took four days of Italian menswear shows – between the Pitti Uomo showcase in Florence and the fashion capital Milan – for a household-name brand to use its precious moment on the world stage to engage in the conversation about the ethical context in which fashion exists right now.

At the Marni spring/summer 2020 show on Saturday afternoon, creative director Francesco Risso had the audience stand shoulder to shoulder, rather than sit, under a suspended ceiling of backlit, disregarded plastic waste. His team at the Italian fashion house have spent months sourcing from industrial sources and the oceans. Imposing and strikingly beautiful, it was to reflect “the weight of this plastic that we’re feeling right now”, he told the press post-show. This being the first of “two acts”, the waste will be recycled into a new collection, in collaboration with the artist Judith Hopf, for a second next season.

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